Deception Island, January 13, 2013

An aerial view. It definitely did not look this inviting
during our trip!

We cruised around the peninsula and are again on the western side of it. We are currently inside the caldera of the active, Deception Island volcano.  Deception Island is one of the South Shetland Islands and is the only active volcano in the chain. When we geologists say active we mean that it has occurred in the relatively recent past. The last eruption here was in the late 1960s and buried a British Antarctic Survey base under a layer of volcanic ash and lapilli (small gravel size bits of volcanic debris).

The entrance to the caldera is through a relatively narrow channel called Neptune’s Bellows.  As we passed through the entrance to the volcano a good cross-section of the volcanic deposits was visible. Much of the upper slopes of the volcano are covered with snow and glaciers.

Note the layers of lava and the light colored ash overlying the slopes.

 The weather has taken another turn for the worse. We are sheltered from the high seas by the caldera walls.  It is quite breezy out, though (understatement).  The wind speeds are up to 25 knots.

We made two landings here. The first looks like a miserable wet, landing.  Not much to recommend it.  Ted Cheeseman spoke of some hot volcanic soil with rare lichens.  I have elected to pass on this, though.  Those who went reported back that it was unexciting. This afternoon we are scheduled to move to Whaler’s Cove and the potential for a swim in the hot springs.  That is definitely something I will try for. 

Well, I wimped out on the swimming at the hot springs.  The wind was howling at probably 20 to 30 knots.  Not much of a hot spring, either.  The volcanic soil (ash and lapilli) on the beach along an area of a couple of hundred yards is heated from underneath by the volcanic gases/fluids.

The steam in the foreground is the "hot springs!"
Not what I was expecting at all.

Forlorn remains of a whaler's boat.

As the tide comes in the cold, Antarctic water mixes with whatever transient water is there. There is no quiescent pool of water.  I still have the remnants of my cold (stuffy nose) and thought it prudent to avoid the wind and cold.  However, a couple of dozen people did elect to wallow for a few seconds in the waves.  They all seemed to survive and so that is good.

Pretty much the only thing going for Deception Island is the fact that it is a volcano.  The remains of a couple of bases are scattered around the island.  A lonely penguin and some abandoned boats summed up the feeling of the place well. 

Leopard Seal lounging on the volcanic sand.
No one took me up on my suggestion to go and
wake it up.

I did hike up to Neptune’s Window (an opening in the rim that allows a view out on the sea).  The wind made it difficult to walk across the ash and lapilli on the beach. It was quite miserable.

A Leopard Seal was lounging on the beach and I did get a few photos of that.  It moved its flippers a few times, somewhat reminiscent of a dog kicking its legs while dreaming.

Getting back to the ship was like being in a shower.  The waves were kicking up and the wind was directly in our face.  A hot sauna was waiting for me on my return.

Late in the day (around 11:00 pm) I went up to the bridge to look at the sunset.  There was no one on the bridge except for the Russian watch officers.  I sat awhile and watched the bow move up and down more than 20 feet.  Spray occasionally launched itself over onto the deck. It was hypnotic.