At Sea, December 31, 2012 and January 1, 2013

Dawn broke on a beautiful day at sea.  The color of the sea has changed dramatically.  Yesterday it was gunmetal gray and today it is an intense dark blue.

A beautiful day at sea. The weather cleared remarkably.

Days at sea will include lectures. Today, we are having lectures on global warming, photography, drawing, tectonics of the Scotia Arc, the Circumpolar Current (largest in terms of volume and length on Earth), marine mammals, and life on South Georgia Island.

The interesting thing about this voyage is the mix of people on board.  Apparently we have some 14 countries represented.  From a scientific standpoint we have one of the world’s leading glaciologists and advocates for global warming, Richard Alley.  Ian Dalziel is probably most responsible for the present understanding of the tectonics of the southern ocean.  Rob Dunbar, from Stanford, is one of the world’s foremost experts in understanding the climatic record through analysis of marine sediment cores (among other things).

Of course, there are other geoscientists on board. These include people like Roger Hooke.  Roger is retired from teaching but is probably one of the world’s experts in glacial geomorphology. Sharon Mosher is the former President of the Geological Society of America and Chair of the Jackson School of Earth Sciences at the University of Texas. Others are consultants in the extractive industries or have other areas of expertise. There are even a few other geo-engineers or hydrogeologists.

As of December 31, 2012,  we are not yet into the areas of primary biological production.  It is once you pass the Polar Front (the line separating the Circumpolar Current from mid-latitude tropical waters) that we expect to start seeing more bird and sea life.  We have seen a small pod of Hourglass Dolphins and some shearwaters. 

An incredible sunset. My photo does not do it justice.

Tonight is New Year’s Eve.  To celebrate, at midnight GMT, we joined in rendition of Auld Lang Syne.  According to the David Edwards the Scot/British gentleman I was seated next to there were a few additional verses sung that he had never seen before.  He also let us know that this song was not reserved for New Year’s Eve alone but is frequently sung at birthdays, weddings, or any other day of celebration.  An additional cultural detail is that he had us at our table link hands cross ways (my right to my neighbor’s right, etc.).  In Scotland this is done with dancing and the dancers step away from the circle with each verse and continue in this manner until the song is ended and the cycle begins again.

As of January 1, 2013, we had traversed a little more than half our journey to South Georgia Island.  We seem to be crossing the Polar Front as the seawater temperature has dropped from 7°C to 3°C.  However, I am not seeing an increase in the sea life.  If anything we are in the middle of the oceanic desert.  Nary a bird or mammal in sight.

My room taken from the doorway. 

I have neglected to give the flavor of my accommodations.  I did not spring for one of the top line suites.  However, I did get one of the better rooms.  I share a room with Bob Milam, a geophysicist from Houston, Texas.  He is a very private individual, existing much of the time in his head.  His reading materials thus far have included Leibniz and Schopenhauer (spa?).  We have a private bathroom.

Another day of lectures…thus far I heard talks on the tectonics of South Georgia Island (an approximately 100 mile long piece of South America rafted away by plate tectonics), wildlife photography, and the unknown impact of the West Antarctic Ice Sheet on global sea level rise.  The degree of melting is unknowable at this time, according to Richard Alley.  However, if it does melt, lubricated by 1°C warmer seas, it could raise global sea level several meters to tens of meters.  Geologic evidence including biogeographic evidence suggests that this has occurred as recently as the last interglacial (130 thousand years ago).  This is a time when sea level was nearly 70 meters above present day levels.

Other entertainment includes lively conversations in the bar/lounge. There is a self-service, honor system bar for snacks, beer, and wine. An expresso machine is occasionally manned or womanned. Self-serve coffee and tea are always available.

From L-R, Ted Cheeseman, Richard Alley, and Jon Hronsky (from Australia)

The food continues to be good.  Good but not great.  Lunches and dinners typically include a salad buffet, soup, and a choice of three entrees.  I try to burn off calories by riding the exercise bicycle in the morning.